Monday, November 20, 2023

Wild Canyon Bushwhack

Finding myself with four days without work or social obligations (the latter rather unusual for early winter in Wallowa County!), I made plans for a backpack in an area I hadn't been before - Cook Creek and Cherry Creek drainages on either side of Dead Horse Ridge.

A topographic map showing access roads and trails available in the area of my backpack.

Dead Horse Ridge (in the far northeastern corner of Wallowa County, not the one in the Divide country east of Joseph) is sandwiched between Cemetery Ridge to the east and Cold Springs Ridge to the west. I've been on a few trails off of those two ridges - down to Eureka Bar at the confluence of the Imnaha and Snake Rivers and a loop past Frog Pond on Dry Creek and up the road along Downey Gulch, respectively. However, I had never explored the trails along Cook Creek and the high trail over to Cherry Creek. Also intriguing - the Forest Service map of this area showed a hot spring located just downstream of Downey Gulch along Cook Creek.

Looking east towards the Snake and Salmon River country from Deadhorse Ridge.

I brought my dog Jasper and a friend's dog Noodle along on this adventure. On our drive out, we saw lots of second-season elk hunters sitting in their rigs or at their big wall tent encampments. Once on the trail, we didn't see a single person. And there was good reason for that.

Descending into the Doug-fir dominated headwaters of Cook Creek.

The switchbacks down to Cook Creek from Dead Horse Ridge were a fairly well maintained, obvious trail, but along the creek it was a different story. Shrubs grew in thickly along much of the rocky floodplain, and the trail appeared and faded and interwove with various game trails. The dogs did okay in their space a couple feet from the ground, but I spent a lot of time with my arms in front of my face pushing my way through branches, sometimes feeling like I was being birthed out of a copse of shrubs when I was finally able to push through. Very occasionally I'd see evidence of other human visitors - a few cut stobs, a strand of blue baling twine, a screwdriver lost along the way. But overall it felt very wild and remote.

Beautiful old alder and ponderosa trees growing along the creek.

It was cool and shady in mid-November, with the sun barely reaching over the ridgelines when the trail hopped up on the hillsides through a few sections. We passed swampy pools of cattails, an abundance of thimbleberry stems, and a beautiful stretch of mature, even old-growth alder gallery. There were also prickly roses and as I got further downstream, occasional blackberries vines and thorny young hackberry trees. Two fires had burned through parts of this drainages in the past 25 years, and burned hot enough to kill large trees through some sections.

Jasper and Noodle enjoying the cool late afternoon shade.

Eventually the sunlight faded from the ridgelines above us, and we found a reasonably flat spot to camp up above the creek near the outlet of Wild Canyon. With rain on the way, I set up the tent quickly and unloaded my gear. But where was my sleeping pad? With a shock, I realized it had been ripped off the side of my pack somewhere along our ~5 miles bushwhack! I took my headlamp and water bottles to fill and we backtracked for a little bit, hoping I had lost it recently, but not finding it. I crouched by the creek in the dark filtering and collecting water for cooking my dinner, accepting that I would have a hard bed for the night. Luckily I had two dogs to keep me warm.

Camp at the mouth of Wild Canyon.

I resolved to push on to try to get to the hot spring the next morning, which according to the map was only a couple miles further down the creek. But I also felt that I should abandon my plans to continue on the loop up towards Cherry Creek, and instead pack up camp and head back the way I had came after that to try to find my sleeping pad. The morning was cool and foggy after the rain, and the sun failed to lift the clouds. We made slow and soaking progress through the wet brush downstream and I decided to turn back a little while after crossing the creek past the mouth of Dry Creek, where pieces of the old trail junction sign still hung on. I gazed longingly up at the faint traces of the high trail heading up over the ridge to Cherry Creek.

Evocative evidence of past and present land use - great basin wild rye amidst a sea of sulphur cinquefoil.

Time was running out to get back to the truck before dark, but I did poke around Wild Canyon a little bit, curious whether I'd find traces of any other visitors. And there were - I found a makeshift fleshing beam propped up on a burnt log and braced with a few large stones, a pile of elk fur slowly mouldering beneath it. A little ways away, the skull of a cow elk. Wild Canyon, indeed.

A makeshift fleshing beam and pile of elk hair near where I camped for the night.

About three miles back up the trail I found my sleeping pad! Ironically, it was lying on top of some of the few branches that had been cut out of the trail by some frustrated hiker who came before me.

The wayward sleeping pad was found!

Tired of the shady creek bottom and wet bushwhacking, I bailed up the next ridge. The sun suffused the mist with golden light and after carefully picking our way up over 2000 feet, we made it to the ridgetop. Cherry Creek and the elusive hot spring - I'll see you next time.

My gallant companions and bed warmers.

A look back at Cook Creek, still shrouded in fog in the late afternoon.